The Portsmouth Road and Its Tributaries: To-Day and in Days of Old — Reading Notes

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In Category - Geography
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George), 1863-1943 Project Gutenberg 2012 Not confirmed
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Portsmouth Road (England) Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Edition facts

Words 78,791
Reading time 343 min
Text sections 13

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Charles G. Harper's 1895 travelogue traces the Portsmouth Road from London to the coast, blending contemporary cycling and coaching observations with historical research. The narrative contrasts the modern suburban encroachment on once-wild heathlands with the vanished world of stagecoaches, inns, and forges, using specific landmarks like Hindhead and the 'Seven Thorns' Inn to examine how progress reshapes landscape and memory.
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They were jolly coach-loads that fared along the roads in coaching days, and, truly, all their jollity was needed, for unearthly hours, insufficient protection from inclement weather, and the tolerable certainty of falling in with thieves on their way, were experiences and contingencies that, one might imagine, could scarce fail of depressing the most buoyant spirits. But our forebears were composed of less delicate nerves and tougher thews and sinews than ourselves. Possibly they had not our veneer of refinement; they certainly possessed a most happy ignorance of science and art; of microbes, and all the recondite ailments that perplex us moderns, they knew nothing; they did all their work by that glorious rule, the rule of thumb; and for their food, they lived on roast beef and home-brewed ale, and damned kickshaws, new-fangled notions, gentility, and a hundred other innovations whole-heartedly, like so many Cobbetts. And Cobbett, in very truth, is the pattern and exemplar of the old-time Englishman, who cursed tea, paper money, "gentlemen" farmers, and innumerable things that, innovations then, have long since been cast aside as old-fashioned and out of date.

[Sidenote: _THE ENGLISHMAN OF YORE_]

The Englishman of the days of road-travel was a much more robust person than the Englishman of railway times. He had to be! The weaklings were all killed off by the rigours of the undeniably harder winters than we experience to-day, and by the rough-and-ready conditions of existence that made for the survival of the strongest constitutions. Luxurious times and easier conditions of life breed their own peculiar ills, and the Englishman of a hundred years ago was a very fine animal indeed, who knew little of nerves, and, altogether, compared greatly to his own advantage with his neuralgia-stricken descendants of to-day.

Still, our ancestors saw nothing of the romance of their times. That has been left for us to discover, and that glamour in which we see their age is one afforded only by the lapse of time.

No: coaching days had their romance, more obvious perhaps to ourselves than to those who lived in the times of road-travel; but most certainly they had their own peculiar discomforts which we who are hurled at express speed in luxurious Pullman cars, or in the more exclusive and less sociable "first," to our destination would never endure were railways abolished and the coaching era come again. I should imagine that three-fourths of us would remain at home.

[Sidenote: _COACHING MISERIES_]

Here are some of the coaching miseries experienced by one who travelled before steam had taken the place of good horseflesh, and, sooth to say, there is not much in the nature of romantic glamour attaching to them:--

_Misery number one._ Although your place has been contingently secured some days before, and although you have risen with the lark, yet you see the ponderous vehicle arrive full. And this, not unlikely, more than once.

2. At the end of a stage, beholding the four panting, reeking, foaming animals which have dragged you twelve miles, and the stiff, galled, scraggy relay, crawling and limping out of the yard.

3. Being politely requested, at the foot of a tremendous hill, to ease the horses. Mackintoshes, vulcanized india-rubber, gutta-percha, and gossamer dust-coats unknown then.

4. An outside passenger, resolving to endure no longer "the pelting of the pitiless storm," takes refuge, to your consternation, inside; together with his dripping hat, saturated cloak, and soaked umbrella.

5. Set down with a promiscuous party to a meal bearing no resemblance to that of a good hotel, excepting in the charge; and no time allowed in which to enjoy it.

6. Closely packed in a box, "cabin'd, cribb'd, confin'd, bound in," with _five_ companions morally or physically obnoxious, for two or three comfortless days and nights.

7. During a halt overhearing the coarse language of the ostlers and the tipplers of the roadside pot-house: and besieged with beggars exposing their horrible mutilations.

8. Roused from your fitful nocturnal slumber by the horn or bugle; the lashing and cracking of whips; the noisy arrivals at turnpike gates, or by a search for parcels (which, after all, are not there) under your seat: to say nothing of solicitous drivers who pester you with their entirely uncalled-for attentions.

9. Discovering, at a diverging-point in your journey, that the "Tally-ho" coach runs only every other day or so, or that it has been finally stopped.

10. Clambering from the wheel by various iron projections to your elevated seat, fearful, all the while, of breaking your precious neck.

11. After threading the narrowest streets of an ancient town, entering the inn-yard by a low archway, at the imminent risk of decapitation.

12. Seeing the luggage piled "Olympus high," so as to occasion an alarming oscillation.

Charles G. Harper opens The Portsmouth Road and Its Tributaries by situating his work within a late-Victorian revival of interest in England's old coach-roads, a resurgence he attributes to amateur coaching enthusiasts, the cycling craze, and a contemplative spirit drawn to scenes of bygone commerce. The book itself, published in 1895, is the fruit of two years' research among 'musty, dusty files of by-gone newspapers' and country jaunts for notes and sketches. Harper's voice is that of a seasoned topographical writer—he had already published The Brighton Road and From Paddington to Penzance—and his method is to interweave present-day observations with historical anecdote, creating a layered portrait of a highway in transition.

The Road as a Living Archive

Harper treats the Portsmouth Road not merely as a route but as a repository of layered histories. He pauses at the 'Huts' Inn, now rebranded as the 'Royal Huts' Hotel, and imagines the reaction of William Cobbett, the early-nineteenth-century radical writer who had scorned such pretensions. The inn's transformation from a humble wayside stop to a hotel catering to a suburbanizing clientele is for Harper a symptom of a broader shift: the wild heathland of Hindhead, once a 'howling' wilderness, is being carved into building plots. He notes with irony that Professor John Tyndall, who built a house there in 1882 for seclusion and health, inadvertently sparked the very popularity he sought to avoid. Tyndall's screens—erected to block the view of a neighboring house—become a monument to his reclusive temperament, a physical trace of a personal preference that Harper reads as a commentary on the tension between solitude and suburban sprawl.

Signs, Names, and the Weight of Legend

Harper is alert to the stories encoded in place names and inn signs. At the 'Seven Thorns' Inn, a lonely roadside house on a barren stretch of road, he finds the sign 'singular' and wonders whether it is 'descriptive or legendary.' He admits that no legend has reached him, and that the seven thorns themselves are 'simply non-existent,' yet he cannot resist comparing the sign to the 'average Clapham "Rosebank"'—a suburban villa name with no roses. This wry observation reveals Harper's method: he juxtaposes the romantic expectations raised by old names with the prosaic realities of the present. Similarly, he dissects the etymology of Thursley, rejecting a scholarly derivation from the god Thor via 'Hammer Ponds' because those ponds are actually remnants of old iron forges. The landscape, for Harper, is a palimpsest where myth and industry compete for meaning, and he prefers the tangible evidence of forge pits to the allure of Norse mythology.

The Texture of the Land: Gravel, Gorse, and the Ungrateful Soil

Harper's descriptive eye is drawn to the physical character of the countryside, especially its harshness. On the descent toward Liphook, he notes the 'fine gravelly road, closely compacted and well kept,' but the surrounding land is 'wild and unfertile,' nourishing only gorse and hardy grasses. The trees are 'wind-tossed and scraggy,' a sign of the poor soil. Even on a summer's day, the vicinity of the 'Seven Thorns' lacks 'the suavity of generous land, prolific of fine timber and graceful foliage.' This is not picturesque England of rolling meadows; it is a landscape of 'nakedness' and 'harsh sand and gravel.' Harper's prose conveys a tactile sense of the terrain—the crunch of gravel underfoot, the sparse vegetation, the long perspectives of road with 'never a house in sight.' His appreciation is unsentimental, grounded in the material realities of travel and habitation, and he finds a certain austere beauty in the very ungratefulness of the soil.

Harper's book rewards readers who enjoy a companionable guide with a sharp eye for contradiction—the way a road can be both a modern thoroughfare and a relic of a slower age. He is at his best when he lets a detail, like Tyndall's screens or the empty sign of the 'Seven Thorns,' open onto larger questions about how we inhabit and remember place. The Portsmouth Road, in his hands, becomes a thread connecting the coachman's vanished world to the cyclist's present, and the reader is invited to follow that thread with curiosity and a tolerance for digression.

There are days I still think of Harper’s vanished coaching inns, and how he mourned their quiet passing. It made me wonder about other landscapes we lose while looking ahead. That same gentle ache surfaced when I first turned the pages of The Cape Peninsula: Pen and Colour Sketches — Edition Insights, its colours holding a moment before it, too, slipped away.

William Brown
2 weeks ago

Sofia Wright
1 month ago

4
4 out of 5 (2 User reviews )

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  • ...
    Victoria Morrow - 1 month ago
    {'rating': 5, 'text': 'A wonderful historical account of the Portsmouth Road, enriched with vivid descriptions of the towns, inns, and characters that once thrived along this ancient route. The author blends past and present seamlessly, making history come alive. With fascinating anecdotes and local legends, this book is a must-read for anyone interested in the social history of England and classic road travel.'}

  • ...
    Carl Moore - 1 month ago
    {'rating': 2, 'text': "The book is outdated and occasionally inaccurate in its historical recounting. The author's rambling style makes it tiresome to read, and the lack of modern maps or illustrations hampers understanding of the geography. It feels more like a collection of trivia than a coherent historical narrative. Not recommended for casual readers."}

  • ...
    Timothy Fisher - 3 weeks ago
    {'rating': 3, 'text': 'An interesting and well-researched book that traces the history of the Portsmouth Road. It is full of details about coaching inns and landmarks, but the narrative can be a bit dry and fragmented, hopping from one location to another. A helpful read for local historians, but not a gripping story for the general reader.'}


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