Old Rome: A Handbook to the Ruins of the City and the Campagna — Reading Notes
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Chapter IX. the nature of the soil and configuration of the hills and valleys of the district surrounding the city are stated.
In the Appendix to the eighth chapter will be found a list of the chief monumental antiquities in the museums, galleries, and other public places. This has been thought to be useful, as these are often difficult to recognise from being mixed with so many other attractive and important objects of more modern art and history. All speculative conjectures as to the probable sites or constructions of ancient buildings or places have been avoided. Such questions require more space than can be spared in so small a volume, and have been fully treated of in my larger work, “Rome and the Campagna.”
I have confined myself in this handbook to a brief topographical, archæological, and historical description of each existing ruin or monument. The references given have been restricted to modern treatises and to a few of the more rarely read Greek and Latin authors. Full classical authorities are given in “Rome and the Campagna,” and are referred to in the foot-notes of this handbook.
The importance of topographical and archæological knowledge, in enabling us to realise the history of ancient life, both national and social, is fortunately becoming more and more generally recognised. The early growth and characteristic features of the Roman commonwealth can be traced in great measure to the conformation of the ground on which the community was first developed. Such local influences are among the highest and most philosophical parts of historical investigation, and have a most important value in enabling us to form an estimate of the truth of statements made by the ancient writers of history.
Besides this interest which pervades the early stage of Roman history, there is also a natural connection, by way of cause or explanation, between the events of later times and the localities in which they occurred; and this in social as well as in national history. Many Roman customs and usages, now extinct, are illustrated and realised by the knowledge gained from monuments of ancient architecture and art. And again, the spirit of Roman literature is more fully sympathised with, and its difficult passages and allusions are frequently elucidated by the light of archæological knowledge.
Thus there is not only the poetical and imaginative satisfaction, which is usually felt most vividly in treading the soil, surveying the scenes, and breathing the air in which great historical persons lived and events occurred, but also an element of fact which gives a firm basis of incontestable truth to our knowledge, and which no speculative interpretation can dissolve.
It is hoped, therefore, that even such an abridged description of ruins, and such a summary of archæological results as that which forms the basis of the present volume, will not be without use to the student of history, as well as a guide to the traveller.
In the chapter on the ruins of the Campagna I have inserted some statements on the geological formations, and on the climate, which appear to have influenced the history and the architecture of that district.
The books from which useful information has been derived are, in addition to those mentioned in the list given in “Rome and the Campagna,” some of the later numbers of “Annali dell’ Instituto,” a small treatise called “Guida del Palatino,” by C. L. Visconti and R. A. Lanciani, and “A Topographical Study of the Roman Forum,” by Mr. F. M. Nichols.
CAMBRIDGE. _Sept. 24, 1879._
THE PALATINE AND VELIA 14
THE COLISEUM AND ESQUILINE 58
THE IMPERIAL FORA AND THE CAPITOLIUM 83
THE VELABRUM AND THE CIRCUS FLAMINIUS 103
PANTHEON, COLUMN OF MARCUS AURELIUS, MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS, MAUSOLEUM OF HADRIAN, AND NEIGHBOURHOOD 127
THE QUIRINAL HILL--BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN--AGGER OF SERVIUS--CASTRA PRÆTORIA 153
THE AVENTINE AND CÆLIAN HILLS 161
APPENDIX TO CHAPTER VIII. MONUMENTAL ANTIQUITIES IN THE MUSEUMS, PIAZZAS, AND OTHER PLACES 177
INTRODUCTION TO CHAPTER IX 185
A. THE VIA APPIA AND THE ALBAN HILLS 194 B. THE VIA LATINA AND TUSCULUM 210 C. GABII AND PRÆNESTE 219 D. OSTIA AND PORTO 229 E. TIBUR 235 F. NORTH-WESTERN CAMPAGNA 256
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
TEMPLE OF JUPITER _Title page._
TEMPLE OF SATURN, ETC. 47
COLISEUM, FROM THE PALATINE HILL 62
FORUM OF NERVA, IN 1600 95
PALATINE HILL, TEMPLE OF HERCULES, AND CLOACA MAXIMA 109
THEATRE OF MARCELLUS 113
THE QUIRINAL HILL FROM THE PALATINE 154
ARCH OF DOLABELLA 175
PEDESTAL OF ANTONINE COLUMN 179
CONE FROM THE TOP OF HADRIAN’S MAUSOLEUM 180
CIRCUS OF MAXENTIUS 213
TEMPLE OF VESTA AT TIBUR 250
PLAN OF ANCIENT ROME, WITH RAILWAYS 1
PLAN OF THE HILLS OF ROME 2
ROME, THE PRESENT WALLS, AND WALLS OF AURELIAN 4
PLAN OF THE PALATINE HILL 14
PLAN OF RUINS IN THE FORUM ROMANUM 38
PLAN OF MONS OPPIUS 73
FORA OF THE CÆSARS 82
THE CIRCUS FLAMINIUS 122
FRAGMENTS OF PIANTA CAPITOLINA--THEATRE OF POMPEY 124
THE THERMÆ OF DIOCLETIAN 154
THE SERVIAN WALLS 156
Robert Burn’s Old Rome (1880) is an epitome of his larger Rome and the Campagna, designed as a portable handbook for travellers. The preface declares it “intended to serve as a handbook to the actually-existing ruins and monuments of ancient Rome and the Campagna,” divided into topographical sections. Burn explicitly avoids “speculative conjectures,” confining himself to “brief topographical, archæological, and historical description of each existing ruin or monument.” The catalog subjects—Description and travel, and Antiquities—accurately reflect this focus, but the excerpts reveal a work that is far more than a travel guide: it is a dense scholarly synthesis, engaging with ancient authors and modern treatises, and weighing conflicting historical accounts.
Topographical Method and the Traveller’s Gaze
Burn’s handbook is organized by topographical sections, a structure he states is “for the convenience of travellers visiting Rome.” This practical arrangement aligns with the catalog subject “Description and travel,” but the excerpts show that Burn does not simply list sights. In the preface, he argues that “the importance of topographical and archæological knowledge, in enabling us to realise the history of ancient life, both national and social, is fortunately becoming more and more generally recognised.” He connects the “early growth and characteristic features of the Roman commonwealth” to “the conformation of the ground.” The handbook thus blends travel utility with a thesis about landscape and history. The excerpt on the Column of Marcus Aurelius exemplifies this: Burn describes the pillar’s height, material, and spiral reliefs, then immediately turns to the historical events depicted—the German wars—and the ancient sources that recount them. The traveller is expected to view the monument not just as an object but as a document.
Weighing Ancient Sources on the Column of Marcus Aurelius
The excerpt on the Column of Marcus Aurelius reveals Burn’s method of source criticism. He describes the reliefs as showing “scenes from the history of the German wars,” then focuses on a thunderstorm scene. Burn quotes Dion Cassius’s account of the Roman army’s distress and the sudden rain, which Dion attributes to the magician Arnuphis. Burn then presents Xiphilinus’s counter-narrative: that the rain came from the prayers of a Christian legion, and that Marcus Aurelius named it “fulminata.” Burn notes that “history, however, does not bear out this wonderful tale of Xiphilinus,” citing inscriptions showing the name “fulminate” was used for the twelfth legion as early as Augustus. This is a precise, evidence-based judgment. Burn does not simply report; he adjudicates between sources, using epigraphic evidence to reject a later legend. The passage shows that the handbook, despite its modest size, engages in scholarly debate.
Architectural Detail and Comparative Description
Burn’s descriptions are precise and comparative. Of the Column of Marcus Aurelius, he notes it is “formed, like the Column of Trajan, in the shape of a laurel crown,” and that “the shafts of the two are exactly of the same height (100 Roman feet), and are formed in the same way of solid cylinders of marble, in the centre of which the spiral staircase which leads to the top is hewn.” He gives the total height as 122 feet, “being two feet lower than that of Trajan.” This comparative approach extends to the reliefs: “as on the Pillar of Trajan, scenes in which the general harangues his troops, the enemy’s encampments are seen, and a great victory is won.” Burn uses the better-known Trajanic monument as a reference point, helping the reader visualize the less familiar column. The description is technical but accessible, focusing on measurable features and iconographic parallels. This aligns with the catalog subject “Antiquities,” but Burn’s method is not merely descriptive; it is analytical, linking form to historical narrative.
Burn’s handbook rewards readers who approach it as both a travel companion and a work of historical scholarship. The topographical arrangement allows one to follow a route through Rome, but the density of references to ancient authors and modern treatises means that the book also functions as a portable reference work. Readers should note that Burn explicitly excludes “speculative conjectures,” so those seeking imaginative reconstructions of lost buildings will need to consult his larger work. Instead, Old Rome offers a disciplined, evidence-based survey of what remains, grounded in the conviction that topography and archaeology illuminate history.
Reading Burn’s careful tracing of the Column’s sculpted spirals, I felt that same patient, unhurried attention I once found in a very different landscape. His refusal to speculate, to simply document what remains, reminded me of the quiet, observational tenderness in A Journey in Brazil — Background and Themes. Both left me with the sense that walking slowly is its own kind of remembering.
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