Hulme's Journal, 1818-19; Flower's Letters from Lexington and the Illinois, 1819; Flower's Letters from the Illinois, 1820-21; and Woods's Two Years' Residence, 1820-21 — Edition Insights

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Thwaites, Reuben Gold, 1853-1913 [Editor], Hulme, Thomas, Flower, Richard, 1761?-1829, Woods, John, -1829 Project Gutenberg 2015 Not confirmed
Illinois -- Description and travel; Edwards County (Ill.); Albion (Ill.) -- History; Lexington (Ky.) -- History; Frontier and pioneer life -- Illinois Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Words 110,174
Reading time 480 min
Text sections 11

The catalog record for Hulme's Journal, 1818-19; Flower's Letters from Lexington and the Illinois, 1819; Flower's Letters from the Illinois, 1820-21; and Woods's Two Years' Residence, 1820-21 — Edition Insights provides practical reading context through 110,174 words, 8 hr estimated reading time, and 11 detected text sections.

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Project Gutenberg metadata also associates the work with “Illinois -- Description and travel,” connecting these edition facts with the source record’s subject description.

Four firsthand accounts of early 19th-century travel and settlement in the Illinois country, edited by Reuben Gold Thwaites. The narratives shift between Thomas Hulme's journal, Richard Flower's letters defending the English settlement at Albion, and John Woods's detailed observations of frontier life, with recurring attention to infrastructure, agriculture, and social customs.
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Birkbeck had recently (1817) published _Notes on a Journey in America_, and (1818) _Letters from Illinois_--honest, straightforward books, if somewhat optimistic in tone. Cobbett replied with _A Year's Residence in the United States of America_ (New York, 1818, and many subsequent editions), in which he made a savage attack on English Prairie, using as a weapon the journal of his follower, Thomas Hulme, lately returned from a visit to Illinois. Birkbeck and Richard Flower (father of George, the first founder), answered the strictures of Cobbett; and various other emigrants added their testimony. From this mass of controversial literature, we have chosen for inclusion in volume x of our series those publications which appear to us best to exemplify Western life and conditions, and contain the most varied descriptions of an English immigrant's impressions and experiences.

Thomas Hulme was an honest English farmer, with strong Radical tendencies, and in earnest sympathy with democratic institutions as he found them in America. The Introduction to his _Journal of a Tour in the Western Countries of America_--which we herein extract and reprint from Part III of his friend Cobbett's _A Year's Residence_--contains some autobiographical material. In explaining his object in coming to America, he declares: "I saw an absence of human misery. I saw a government taking away a very small portion of men's earnings. I saw ease and happiness and a fearless utterance of thought everywhere prevail." The only question with him was, in what region of America would it be best for him to settle. His visit to the "Western Countries" was undertaken with a view to examining agricultural and social conditions there. Travelling over the usual Pennsylvania road to Pittsburg, he voyaged down the Ohio, and thence went through Illinois. His notes along the way contain shrewd but useful observations on the route, the people he encountered, prices, and wages. Hulme has nothing adverse to say of the West. Cobbett, who first published this journal, uses it as a text; but in making it serve this purpose of detraction, he obviously wrests Hulme's words from their meaning. We have thought it desirable to reprint Hulme's _Journal_ apart from the mass of diatribe with which Cobbett originally enveloped it.

Richard Flower, whose _Letters from Lexington and the Illinois_ (London, 1819), and _Letters from the Illinois_ (London, 1822), herein reprinted, were first published in reply to Cobbett, was a man of culture and refinement, owner of a considerable estate in Hertford. In 1818, at the age of sixty-three, he sold his property and joined his eldest son, George, in promoting the colony to Illinois. The first winter in America was passed at Lexington, Kentucky, awaiting the preparation of a residence at Albion, the new Illinois town founded by his son in Edwards County. After his removal thither (July, 1819) he passed the rest of his life at this settlement, holding religious services for the infant colony, and in many ways serving as a medium of enlightenment and refinement in this distant region. He died in 1829. His _Letters_ are eminently sane and sensible. His comments upon the American character are appreciative and kindly, his chief strictures being upon the subject of slavery.

The major portion of our volume is devoted to a reprint of John Woods's _Two Years' Residence ... in the Illinois Country_ (London, 1822), detailing with precision the experiences of a well-to-do English farmer seeking a home in the new world. Woods was a matter-of-fact person, whose book has no pretensions to literary style; but it does present faithfully the average Englishman's impressions of persons and things in the United States of 1819-21. Landing in Baltimore, Woods bought conveyances that transported his family and goods over the new National Road to Wheeling, whence a flat-boat furnished their means of carriage down the Ohio River to Shawneetown, then the principal port of Illinois. From this point the immigrants walked overland to English Prairie, sending the baggage around by way of the Wabash and its tributaries. Arrived at the settlement, Woods bought of American pioneers lands that had already received some cultivation, and settled contentedly to build up a new farm in these rich regions. His experiences were typical; and while he expressly disclaims attempting to influence others intending to remove from England, yet his favorable pictures could not have failed of their effect.

His comments upon American life are shrewd and kindly. On the whole, he says, "we have received as good treatment as we should have in a tour through England; but the manners of Americans are more rough than those of Englishmen." Gifted with penetration that permitted him to discover the good qualities beneath the rude exterior, he makes an interesting portrayal of the backwoodsman, giving us an amusing although not a sarcastic record of an imaginary conversation imbued with some of the peculiar Americanisms of his time. More interesting, perhaps, from the point of view of our series, is the account he gives of the towns on the Ohio, and the progress of settlement, compared with those of the travellers of 1803-09. He finds older towns falling into decay, new ones springing into existence, and over it all the trail of the speculator. The extent and cheapness of public lands is a subject for comment, and the land laws and methods of survey are minutely detailed.

In view of the strictures of later English writers, their flippant comments and inappreciative criticisms, the plain, straightforward descriptions of these farmers of English Prairie give a just and wholesome account of the American West at the beginning of the third decade of the nineteenth century. One further service the English settlers performed for Illinois, and civilization. When a new constitution for the state was agitated--one that should admit slavery to its borders--it was the sturdy opposition of the English leaders that turned the scale in favor of freedom. In this struggle (1824-25), Morris Birkbeck once more met his friend Edward Coles, now become governor of Illinois. Although a Virginian, Coles was opposed to the extension of slavery, and stood shoulder to shoulder with Birkbeck in this great fight. Largely to English devotion to free institutions, it was due that the attempt to foist the "peculiar institution" upon the new West failed, and the state which was to shelter and train Abraham Lincoln was made a free land.

In the preparation of notes to this volume, the Editor has had the assistance of Louise Phelps Kellogg, Ph.D., Edith Kathryn Lyle, Ph.D., and Mr. Archer Butler Hulbert.

MADISON, WIS., November, 1904.

HULME'S JOURNAL OF A TOUR IN THE WESTERN COUNTRIES OF AMERICA--SEPTEMBER 30, 1818-AUGUST 8, 1819.

Extracted and reprinted from William Cobbett's _A Year's Residence in the United States of America_: London, 1828.

TO TIMOTHY BROWN, ESQ.

OF PECKHAM LODGE, SURREY

_North Hempstead, Long Island, 10th Dec. 1818._

THE little volume here presented to the public, consists, as you will perceive, for the greater and most valuable part, of travelling notes made by our friend HULME, whom I had the honour to introduce to you in 1816, and with whom you were so much pleased.

His activity, which nothing can benumb; his zeal against the twin monster, tyranny and priestcraft, which nothing can cool; and his desire to assist in providing a place of retreat for the oppressed, which nothing but the success in the accomplishment can satisfy; these have induced him to employ almost the whole of his time here in various ways all tending to the same point.

The Boroughmongers have agents and spies all over the inhabited globe. Here they cannot _sell blood_: they can only collect information and calumniate the people of both countries. These vermin our friend _firks out_ (as the Hampshire people call it); and they hate him as rats hate a terrier.

Amongst his other labours, he has performed a very laborious journey to the _Western Countries_, and has been as far as the Colony {260} of our friend BIRKBECK. This journey has produced a JOURNAL; and this Journal, along with the rest of the volume, I dedicate to you in testimony of my constant remembrance of the many, many happy hours I have spent with you, and of the numerous acts of kindness which I have received at your hands. You were one of those, who _sought acquaintance with me_, when I was shut up in a felon's jail for _two years_ for having expressed my indignation at seeing Englishmen flogged, in the heart of England, under a guard of German bayonets and sabres, and when I had on my head _a thousand pounds fine and seven years' recognizances_. You, at the end of the two years, took me from the prison, in your carriage, home to your house. You and our kind friend, WALKER, are _even yet_, held in bonds for my _good behaviour_, the seven years not being expired. All these things are written in the very core of my heart; and when I act as if I had forgotten any one of them, may no name on earth be so much detested and despised as that of

Your faithful friend, And most obedient servant, WM. COBBETT

IN giving an account of the United States of America, it would not have been proper to omit saying something of the _Western Countries_, the Newest of the New Worlds, to which so many thousands and hundreds of thousands are flocking, and towards which the writings of Mr. Birkbeck have, of late, drawn the pointed attention of all those Englishmen, who, having something left to be robbed of, and wishing to preserve it, are looking towards America as a place of refuge from the Boroughmongers and the Holy Alliance, which latter, to make the compact complete, seems to want nothing but the accession of His Satanic Majesty.

_I could not go_ to the Western Countries; and the accounts of others were seldom to be relied on; because, scarcely any man goes thither without some degree of partiality, or comes back without being tainted with some little matter, at least, of self-interest. Yet, it was desirable to make an attempt, at least, towards settling the question: "Whether the Atlantic, or the Western, Countries were the best for _English Farmers_ to settle in." Therefore, when Mr. HULME proposed to make a Western Tour, I was very {262} much pleased, seeing that, of all the men I knew, he was the most likely to bring us back an _impartial_ account of what he should see. His great knowledge of farming as well as of manufacturing affairs; his capacity of estimating local advantages and disadvantages; the natural turn of his mind for discovering the means of applying to the use of man all that is furnished by the earth, the air, and water; the patience and perseverance with which he pursues all his inquiries; the urbanity of his manners, which opens to him all the sources of information; his inflexible adherence to _truth_: all these marked him out as the man on whom the public might safely rely.

I, therefore, give his Journal, made during his tour. He offers no _opinion_ as to the _question_ above stated. That _I shall_ do; and when the reader has gone through the Journal he will find my opinions as to that question, which opinions I have stated in a Letter addressed to Mr. BIRKBECK.

The American reader will perceive, that this Letter is intended principally for the perusal of _Englishmen_; and, therefore, he must not be surprised if he finds a little bickering in a group so much of a _family_ cast.

_North Hempstead, 10th December, 1818._

{263} INTRODUCTION TO THE JOURNAL

_Philadelphia, 30th Sept. 1818._

IT seems necessary, by way of Introduction to the following _Journal_, to say some little matter respecting the author of it, and also respecting his motives for wishing it to be published.

As to the first, I am an Englishman by birth and parentage; and am of the county of Lancaster. I was bred and brought up at farming work, and became an apprentice to the business of _Bleacher_, at the age of 14 years. My own industry made me a master-bleacher, in which state I lived many years at Great Lever, near Bolton, where I employed about 140 men, women, and children, and had generally about 40 apprentices. By this business, pursued with incessant application, I had acquired, several years ago, property to an amount sufficient to satisfy any man of moderate desires.

But, along with my money my children had come and had gone on increasing to the number of _nine_. New _duties_ now arose, and demanded my best attention. It was not sufficient that I was likely to have a decent fortune for each child. I was bound to provide, if possible, against my children being stripped of what I had earned for them. I, therefore, looked seriously at the situation of England; and, I saw, that the incomes of my children were all _pawned_ (as my friend Cobbett[1] truly calls it) to pay the Debts of the Borough, or seat, owners. I saw that, of whatever I might be able to {264} give to my children, as well as of what they might be able to earn, _more than one half_ would be taken away to feed pensioned Lords and Ladies, Soldiers to shoot at us, Parsons to persecute us, and Fundholders, who had lent their money to be applied to purposes of enslaving us. This view of the matter was sufficient to induce the father of nine children to think of the means of rescuing them from the consequences, which common sense taught him to apprehend. But, there were other considerations, which operated with me in producing my emigration to America.

[1] For a brief biography of William Cobbett, see Flint's _Letters_, volume ix of our series, note 4.--ED.

In the year 1811 and 1812 the part of the country, in which I lived, was placed under a _new sort of law_; or, in other words, it was placed out of the protection of the old law of the land.[2] Men were seized, dragged to prison, treated like convicts, many transported and put to death, without having committed any thing, which the law of the land deems a _crime_. It was then that the infamous _Spy-System_ was again set to work in Lancashire, in which horrid system FLETCHER of Bolton was one of the principal actors, or, rather, organizers and promoters. At this time I endeavoured to detect the machinations of these dealers in human blood; and, I narrowly escaped being sacrificed myself on the testimony of two men, who had their pardon offered them on condition of their _swearing against me_. The men refused, and were transported, leaving wives and children to starve.

[2] In 1811 the growing hostility of those employed in the manufacture of stockings to the introduction of knitting frames, culminated in the Luddite Riots, and in Nottingham over six hundred stocking frames were broken. The riot spread rapidly among the artisans in the cotton and woolen industries in Lancashire and Yorkshire, mills were burned, machinery of all kinds destroyed, and it became necessary to call out seven regiments before quiet was restored. The government became alarmed, especially as the mobs had stormed the militia depots and secured arms for themselves, and several repressive measures were hurried through Parliament. The first, passed March 5, 1812, made frame-breaking a capital offense; the second, the Nottingham Watch and Ward Bill, passed the same month, enabled the lord-lieutenant or sheriff to establish watch and ward if further riots occurred; and the third, the Preservation of Public Peace Act, passed July 27, 1812, empowered any magistrate in the disturbed district to search for secreted arms, and to call upon the people to give up their weapons. See _Parliamentary Debates_, xxi, pp. 859, 1166; xxiii, pp. 1099, 1251.--ED.

Upon this occasion, my friend DOCTOR TAYLOR, most humanely, and with his usual zeal and talent, laboured to counteract the works of FLETCHER and his associates. The DOCTOR published a pamphlet on the subject, in 1812, which every Englishman should read. I, as far as I was able, co-operated with him. We went to London, laid the real facts before several members of the two houses of Parliament; and, in some degree, checked the progress of the dealers in blood. I had an interview with Lord Holland, and told him, that, if he would pledge himself to cause the _secret-service money_ to be kept in London, I would pledge myself for the keeping of the peace in Lancashire. In {265} short, it was necessary, in order to support the tyranny of the seat-sellers, that _terror_ should prevail in the populous districts. _Blood_ was wanted to flow; and _money_ was given to spies to tempt men into what the new law had made crimes.

From this time I resolved _not to leave my children in such a state of things_, unless I should be taken off very suddenly. I saw no hope of obtaining _a Reform of the Parliament_, without which it was clear to me, that the people of England must continue to work solely for the benefit of the great insolent families, whom I hated for their injustice and rapacity, and despised for their meanness and ignorance. I saw, in them, a mass of debauched and worthless beings, having at their command an army to compel the people to surrender to them the fruits of their industry; and in addition, a body existing under the garb of _religion_, almost as despicable in point of character, and still more malignant.

I could not have died in peace, leaving my children the slaves of such a set of beings; and I could not live in peace, knowing, that at any hour, I might die and so leave my family. Therefore I resolved, like the Lark in the fable, to _remove_ my brood, which was still more numerous than that of the Lark. While the war was going on between England and America, I could not come to this country. Besides, I had great affairs to arrange. In 1816, having made my preparations, I set off, _not with my family_; for that I did not think a prudent step. It was necessary for me to _see_ what America really was. I therefore, came for that purpose.

I was well pleased with America, over a considerable part of which I travelled. I saw an absence of human misery. I saw a government taking away a very small portion of men's earnings. I saw ease and happiness and a fearless utterance of thought every where prevail. I saw laws like those of the _old laws_ of England, every where obeyed with cheerfulness and held in veneration. I heard of no mobs, no riots, no spies, no transportings, no hangings. I saw those very _Irish_, to keep whom in order, such murderous laws exist in {266} Ireland, here good, peaceable, industrious citizens. I saw no placemen and pensioners, riding the people under foot. I saw no greedy Priesthood, fattening on the fruits of labour in which they had never participated, and which fruits they seized in despite of the people. I saw a _Debt_, indeed, but then, it was so insignificant a thing; and, besides, it had been contracted for _the people's use_, and not for that of a set of tyrants, who had used the money to _the injury of the people_. In short, I saw a state of things, precisely the reverse of that in England, and very nearly what it would be in England, if the Parliament were reformed.

The volume collects four distinct narratives from 1818–1821, each offering a different vantage point on the same emerging frontier. Thomas Hulme's journal moves methodically from the East Coast into the Ohio Valley, recording distances, prices, and the condition of roads and bridges. Richard Flower's letters, written in response to William Cobbett's criticisms, defend the English settlement at Albion with a polemical edge. John Woods's two-year residence provides the most systematic account, cataloging crops, livestock, and the habits of backwoodsmen. The editor, Reuben Gold Thwaites, frames these texts as primary documents of westward expansion, preserving the original prefaces and title pages.

Movement and Infrastructure

Hulme's journal is structured as a sequential itinerary, with each day's entry noting miles traveled, terrain, and the state of roads and waterways. He records the national road crossing the Monongahela at Brownsville, a bridge under construction with stone piers and wooden superstructure, and the novel practice of keeping to the right to avoid collisions. These details accumulate into a practical geography of early American travel. Woods similarly tracks distances and describes the condition of ferries, fords, and taverns. The narratives share a preoccupation with the physical obstacles of movement—muddy creeks, unimproved land, and the scarcity of bridges—and the incremental improvements being made. Both authors treat infrastructure as a measure of civilization's advance.

Agriculture and Land Use

Woods devotes sustained attention to farming practices: the planting of fruit trees without grafting, the tapping of sugar maples in February, and the construction of water-meadows for irrigation. He notes that Americans seldom bud or graft fruit trees, simply planting the stone. Hulme observes a woman milking a cow by the roadside who offers apples from her orchard and boasts of nearly paying off her farm. These vignettes illustrate the mix of subsistence and market agriculture. Flower's letters, by contrast, argue for the fertility of Illinois prairies and the viability of English-style farming, countering Cobbett's skepticism. The texts together document a landscape in transition from forest to field.

Social Encounters and Customs

Hulme records chance meetings with settlers who share their stories: a woman who would not give a cent to call King George her uncle, a camp-meeting site where Methodists prayed four times daily for days on end. These encounters reveal the social fabric of the frontier—its independence, religiosity, and oral culture. Woods describes the habits of backwoodsmen, their log houses, and their hospitality. Flower's letters, written to an English audience, explain the social organization of the English settlement at Albion, including its landholding patterns and community governance. The narratives thus move between individual anecdotes and broader social commentary.

Polemical Undercurrents

Richard Flower's letters are explicitly defensive, written to refute misrepresentations by William Cobbett. The prefaces by Benjamin Flower and the publisher frame the letters as correctives. This polemical layer distinguishes Flower's contributions from the more neutral observations of Hulme and Woods. The volume as a whole, edited by Thwaites, preserves these disputes, allowing readers to see how early settlement was debated in print. Hulme's journal, originally published with a preface by Cobbett himself, adds another dimension: the same editor who championed Hulme later became the target of Flower's rebuttals. The structure of the volume thus mirrors the contentious nature of frontier promotion.

Readers approaching this collection should attend to the different genres at work: the travel journal, the polemical letter, and the ethnographic survey. Each author writes with a distinct purpose, and their accounts sometimes contradict one another. The editor's notes and prefaces provide context but do not resolve these tensions. For a full picture of the English settlement in Illinois, the texts are best read in sequence, noting how each builds on or challenges the previous one.

There’s something tender about these old settlers’ diaries—their careful notes on fences and weather, as if permanence might be written down in time. Reading them, I felt the ache of places that were new once, then lived-in. That same wistfulness found me later in In Tamal Land — A Reader’s Guide, though the landscape there is softer, more forgiving. Both left me with that quiet, lonely warmth of watching a place become a home.

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    Marvin Morgan - 1 month ago
    This compilation offers a remarkable window into early 19th-century America through the eyes of travelers like Hulme, Flower, and Woods. Each journal provides authentic details about the Illinois frontier and Lexington, bringing to life the challenges and hopes of settlers. Reading these firsthand accounts is like stepping into a time machine, and the historical significance is immense. The editors have done a wonderful job maintaining the original tone while making it accessible to modern readers. A truly valuable resource for history enthusiasts.

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    Wendy Stacey Watson - 1 month ago
    As a primary source compilation, this book is a goldmine for researchers interested in frontier life during the 1810s and 1820s. The journals are presented with minimal editorial interference, which gives them authenticity but also makes them a bit challenging to read due to archaic language and abrupt style. The lack of contextual footnotes is a minor drawback, but the raw nature of the accounts is a plus if you want to draw your own conclusions. Worth a read, but not for casual history fans.

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    Jonathan Wade - 3 weeks ago
    I was excited to delve into these early American narratives, but this edition fails to make them accessible. The journals are reproduced with very little background information or explanation of the social and political context, leaving the reader confused about the significance of certain events. The writing is often tedious and repetitive, and the book feels more like a collection of raw notes than a curated publication. While it has potential as a research document, it is not very engaging as a reading experience. Editors should have provided more guidance and clarity.


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