Siam : The Land of the White Elephant as It Was and Is — Background and Themes

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In Category - Travel Narratives
Bacon, George B. (George Blagden), 1836-1876, Williams, Frederick Wells, 1857-1928 [Editor] Project Gutenberg 2011 Not confirmed
Thailand -- Description and travel; Thailand -- History Readers of public-domain and historical texts
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Words 82,909
Reading time 361 min
Text sections 8

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A compiled and revised 1893 travelogue on Siam, blending missionary accounts, diplomatic reports, and natural history. The editor's note acknowledges outdated or inaccurate portions, while excerpts reveal a focus on coastal navigation, Siamese court customs, and the tension between Western modernization and tropical languor.
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CHAPTER II. GEOGRAPHY OF SIAM, 10

CHAPTER III. OLD SIAM--ITS HISTORY, 17

CHAPTER IV. THE STORIES OF TWO ADVENTURERS, 36

CHAPTER V. MODERN SIAM, 65

CHAPTER VI. FIRST IMPRESSIONS, 73

CHAPTER VII. A ROYAL GENTLEMAN, 86

CHAPTER VIII. PHRABAT SOMDETCH PHRA PARAMENDR MAHA MONGKUT, 104

CHAPTER IX. AYUTHIA, 121

CHAPTER X. PHRABAT AND PATAWI, 130

CHAPTER XI. FROM BANGKOK TO CHANTABOUN--A MISSIONARY JOURNEY IN 1835, 146

CHAPTER XII. CHANTABOUN AND THE GULF, 170

CHAPTER XIII. MOUHOT IN THE HILL-COUNTRY OF CHANTABOUN, 183

CHAPTER XIV. PECHABURI OR P'RIPP'REE, 200

CHAPTER XV. THE TRIBES OF NORTHERN SIAM, 216

CHAPTER XVI. SIAMESE LIFE AND CUSTOMS, 234

CHAPTER XVII. NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF SIAM, 258

CHAPTER XVIII. CHRISTIAN MISSIONS IN SIAM--THE OUTLOOK FOR THE FUTURE, 270

CHAPTER XIX. BANGKOK AND THE NEW SIAM, 277

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

GREAT PAGODA WAT CHANG, _Frontispiece_

INUNDATION OF THE MEINAM, 11

PAGODA AT AYUTHIA, 21

VIEW TAKEN FROM THE CANAL AT AYUTHIA, 31

RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA, 38

GENERAL VIEW OF BANGKOK, 76

THE LATE FIRST KING AND QUEEN, 105

ONE OF THE SONS OF THE LATE FIRST KING, 109

A FEW OF THE CHILDREN OF THE LATE FIRST KING, 120

REMOVAL OF THE TUFT OF A YOUNG SIAMESE, 122

ELEPHANTS IN AN ENCLOSURE OR PARK AT AYUTHIA, 127

PAKNAM ON THE MEINAM, 129

PAGODA AT MOUNT PHRABAT, 130

MOUNTAINS OF KORAT FROM PATAWI, 141

PORT OF CHANTABOUN, 149

MONKEYS PLAYING WITH A CROCODILE, 180

MOUNTAINS OF PECHABURI, 200

SIAMESE ROPE-DANCER, 237

SIAMESE LADIES AT DINNER, 242

BUILDING ERECTED AT FUNERAL OF SIAMESE OF HIGH RANK, 251

HALL OF AUDIENCE, PALACE OF BANGKOK, 277

PORTICO OF THE AUDIENCE HALL AT BANGKOK, 280

THE PALACE OF THE KING OF SIAM, BANGKOK, 292

EARLY INTERCOURSE WITH SIAM--RELATIONS WITH OTHER COUNTRIES

The acquaintance of the Christian world with the kingdom and people of Siam dates from the beginning of the sixteenth century, and is due to the adventurous and enterprising spirit of the Portuguese. It is difficult for us, in these days when Portugal occupies a position so inconsiderable, and plays a part so insignificant, among the peoples of the earth, to realize what great achievements were wrought in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries by the peaceful victories of the early navigators and discoverers from that country, or by the military conquests which not seldom followed in the track of their explorations. It was while Alphonso d'Albuquerque was occupied with a military expedition in Malacca, that he seized the occasion to open diplomatic intercourse with Siam. A lieutenant under his command, who was fitted for the service by an experience of captivity during which he had acquired the Malay language, was selected for the mission. He was well received by the king, and came back to his general, bringing royal presents and proposals to assist in the siege of Malacca. So cordial a response to the overtures of the Portuguese led to the more formal establishment of diplomatic and commercial intercourse. And before the middle of the sixteenth century a considerable number of Portuguese had settled, some of them in the neighborhood of the capital (Ayuthia), and some of them in the provinces of the peninsula of Malacca, at that time belonging to the kingdom of Siam. One or two adventurers, such as De Seixas and De Mello, rose to positions of great power and dignity under the Siamese king. And for almost a century the Portuguese maintained, if not an exclusive, certainly a pre-eminent, right to the commercial and diplomatic intercourse which they had inaugurated.

As in other parts of the East Indies, however, the Dutch presently began to dispute the supremacy of their rivals, and, partly by the injudicious and presumptuous arrogance of the Portuguese themselves, succeeded in supplanting them. The cool and mercenary cunning of the greedy Hollanders was more than a match for the proud temper of the hot-blooded Dons. And as, in the case of Japan, the story of Simabara lives in history to witness what shameless and unscrupulous wickedness commercial rivalry could lead to; so in Siam there is for fifty years a story of intrigue and greed, over-reaching itself first on one side, and then on the other. First, the Portuguese were crowded out of their exclusive privileges. And then in turn the Dutch were obliged to surrender theirs. To-day there are still visible in the jungle, near the mouth of the Meinam River, the ruins of the Amsterdam which grew up between the years 1672 and 1725, under the enterprise of the Dutch East India Company, protected and fostered by the Siamese Government. And to-day, also, the descendants of the Portuguese, easy to be recognized, notwithstanding the mixture of blood for many generations, hold insignificant or menial offices about the capital and court.

The reviser's note, dated 1893, candidly admits that 'the authoritative history and description of Siam has yet to be written' and that this volume leaves earlier accounts by Pallegoix, Bowring, and Mouhot largely untouched. The book thus presents itself not as a definitive work but as a compilation, revised sparingly to correct inaccuracies and obsolescence. This editorial posture shapes the reader's encounter: the text is a layered document, preserving nineteenth-century perspectives while signaling their limitations.

Excerpts from the travel narrative show a keen eye for coastal geography—islands, river mouths, and mountain ridges are described with precision. The author notes the 'whimsical incongruity' of steam, gas, and electricity in an Oriental setting, yet insists that these are adjuncts, not essentials, of Western civilization. The result is a work that oscillates between empirical observation and cultural commentary, never fully committing to either.

Navigating Coast and Custom

The excerpts from the missionary journey to Chantaboun offer a detailed log of sailing conditions, island names, and topographical features. The author records the 'natural tunnel' of Koh Lŏŏ, the 'lofty peaks' of Koh Ch'ang, and the 'sublime peaks' along the river. These observations are interwoven with social protocols: the Siamese custom forbidding men and women from sharing a boat is noted without elaboration. The narrative voice remains that of an outsider, recording what is seen and heard without claiming deep understanding.

The account of the brig's navigation reveals the crew's 'unskilful' handling, leading to 'disappointment' when a passage proves to be a false entrance. Such moments of uncertainty contrast with the serene descriptions of scenery, suggesting a tension between the traveller's expectations and the realities of travel in Siam.

The Editor's Balancing Act

Frederick Wells Williams, the reviser, states his aim to leave Bacon's compilation 'untouched, so far as possible,' omitting only what is 'inaccurate or obsolete.' This approach results in a text that is both a historical document and an editorial artifact. The reviser adds 'rather sparingly' from recent travellers, yet his own note introduces a comparative framework: Siam's 'gradual progress' is contrasted with Japan's 'ebullition of new life.'

The reader is thus presented with multiple layers of authorship—Bacon's original compilation, Williams's revisions, and the voices of earlier writers like Mouhot. The book does not pretend to offer a unified perspective; instead, it invites scrutiny of how knowledge about Siam was assembled and updated in the late nineteenth century.

Tropics and Tempo

The reviser's note attributes Siam's lack of 'popular awakening' to 'the languor and content of life in the tropics.' This generalization reflects a broader discourse linking climate to national character, a theme that recurs in the travel excerpts. The description of the sun's power overwhelming the narrator 'in my feebleness of health' echoes this environmental determinism.

Yet the text also records concrete details that resist easy categorization: the 'curious pinnacle' of Koh Nom Low, the 'artificial arch of stone' at Koh Lŏŏ, and the 'mountain Sal Bap' towering inland. These observations ground the narrative in specific places, even as the editorial framing imposes a narrative of gradual, cautious modernization.

Readers approaching this volume should attend to its composite nature: it is a travelogue, a compilation, and a revision, each layer carrying its own assumptions. The excerpts reward attention to the interplay between empirical detail and cultural commentary, and to the editorial choices that shape what is included or omitted. The book offers not a single portrait of Siam but a series of snapshots, framed by the limitations and ambitions of its compilers.

There’s a certain haunting ache in old Siam—the court rituals and steamers drifting past mangroves—that makes me wonder how much of any place survives our hurry. I’ve been dipping into Through East Anglia in a Motor Car — Edition Insights lately, and it catches a similar wistfulness: England seen from the road, already half-remembering itself. Odd how two such different maps can share that same quiet fading light.

Jack Walker
2 weeks ago

Sebastian Hall
1 month ago

Luke Wilson
3 weeks ago

Scarlett Anderson
4 weeks ago

Liam Jones
1 month ago

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