My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills — Reading Notes

Arrival in India--Hospitable friends--The Lieut.-Governor--Journey to the Naga Hills--Nigriting--Golaghat--A panther reminiscence--Hot springs--A village dance--Dimapur--My new abode 1

Samagudting--Unhealthy quarters--A callous widower--Want of water--Inhabitants of the Naga Hills--Captain Butler--Other officials--Our life in the wilds--A tiger carries off the postman--An Indian forest--Encouragement 12

Historical events connected with Manipur and the Naga Hills--Different tribes--Their religion--Food and customs 22

Value of keeping a promise--Episode of Sallajee--Protection given to small villages, and the large one defied--"Thorough" Government of India's views--A plea for Christian education in the Naga Hills 37

Visit Dimapur--A terrible storm--Cultivation--Aggression by Konoma--My ultimatum--Konoma submits--Birth of a son--Forest flowers--A fever patient--Proposed change of station--Leave Naga Hills--March through the forest--Depredation by tigers--Calcutta--Return to England 45

Return to India--Attached to Foreign Office--Imperial assemblage at Delhi--Almorah--Appointed to Manipur--Journey to Shillong--Cherra Poojee--Colonel McCulloch--Question of ceremony 54

Start for Manipur--March over the hills--Lovely scenery--View of the valley--State reception--The Residency--Visitors 60

Visit the Maharajah--His ministers--Former revolutions--Thangal Major 69

Manipur--Early history--Our connection with it--Ghumbeer Singh--Burmese war 78

Ghumbeer Singh and our treatment of him--Nur Singh and attempt on his life--McCulloch--His wisdom and generosity--My establishment--Settlement of frontier dispute 88

My early days in Manipur--The capital--The inhabitants--Good qualities of Manipuris--Origin of valley of Manipur--Expedition to the Naga Hills--Lovely scenery--Attack on Kongal Tannah by Burmese--Return from Naga Hills--Visit Kongal Tannah 95

Discussions as to new Residency--Its completion--Annual boat-races--Kang-joop-kool--Daily work--Dealings with the Durbar 104

Violent conduct of Prince Koireng--A rebuke--Service payment--Advantages of Manipuri system--Customs duties--Slavery--Releasing slaves--Chowbas' fidelity--Sepoy's kindness to children--Visit to the Yoma range 112

An old acquaintance--Monetary crisis--A cure for breaking crockery--Rumour of human sacrifices--Improved postal system--Apricots--Mulberries--A snake story--Search after treasure--Another snake story--Visit to Calcutta--Athletics--Ball practice--A near shave 122

Spring in Manipur--Visit Kombang--Manipuri orderlies--Parade of the Maharajah's Guards--Birth of a daughter--An evening walk in the capital--Polo--Visit to Cachar 131

Punishment of female criminals--A man saved from execution--A Kuki executed--Old customs abolished--Anecdote of Ghumbeer Singh--The Manipuri army--Effort to re-organise Manipur Levy--System of rewards--"Nothing for nothing"--An English school--Hindoo festivals--Rainbows--View from Kang-joop-kool 138

Mr. Damant and the Naga Hills--Rumours on which I act--News of revolt in Naga Hills and Mr. Damant's murder--Maharajah's loyalty--March to the relief of Kohima--Relief of Kohima--Incidents of siege--Heroism of ladies--A noble defence 147

Restoring order and confidence--Arrival of Major Evans--Arrival of Major Williamson--Keeping open communication--Attack on Phesama--Visit to Manipur--General Nation arrives--Join him at Suchema--Prepare to attack Konoma--Assault of Konoma 161

Konoma evacuated--Journey to Suchema for provisions and ammunition, and return--We march to Suchema with General--Visit Manipur--Very ill--Meet Sir Steuart Bayley in Cachar--His visit to Manipur--Grand reception--Star of India--Chussad attack on Chingsow--March to Kohima and back--Reflections on Maharajah's services--Naga Hills campaign overshadowed by Afghan war 175

Visit Chingsow to investigate Chussad outrage--Interesting country--Rhododendrons--Splendid forest--Chingsow and the murders--Chattik--March back across the hills 182

Saving a criminal from execution--Konoma men visit me--A terrible earthquake--Destruction wrought in the capital--Illness of the Maharajah--Question as to the succession--Arrival of the Queen's warrant--Reception by the Maharajah--The Burmese question 190

March to Mao and improvement of the road--Lieutenant Raban--Constant troubles with Burmah--Visit to Mr. Elliott at Kohima--A tiger hunt made easy--A perilous adventure--Rose bushes--Brutal conduct of Prince Koireng--We leave Manipur for England 198

Return to Manipur--Revolution in my absence--Arrangements for boundary--Survey and settlement--Start for Kongal--Burmese will not act--We settle boundary--Report to Government--Return to England 208

Return to India--Visit to Shillong--Manipur again--Cordial reception--Trouble with Thangal Major--New arts introduced 216

A friend in need--Tour round the valley--Meet the Chief Commissioner--March to Cachar--Tour through the Tankhool country--Metomi Saramettie--Somrah--Terrace cultivators--A dislocation--Old quarters at Kongal Tannah--Return to the valley --A sad parting 223

More trouble with Thangal Major--Tit-for-tat--Visit to the Kubo valley--A new Aya Pooiel--Journey to Shillong--War is declared--A message to Kendat to the Bombay-Burmah Corporation agents--Anxiety as to their fate--March to Mao 236

News from Kendat--Mr. Morgan and his people safe--I determine to march to Moreh Tannah--March to Kendat--Arrive in time to save the Bombay-Burmah Corporation Agents--Visit of the Woon--Visit to the Woon 244

People fairly friendly--Crucifixion--Carelessness of Manipuris--I cross the Chindwin--Recross the Chindwin--Collect provisions--Erect stockades and fortify our position--Revolt at Kendat--We assume the offensive--Capture boats and small stockades--Revolt put down--Woon and Ruckstuhl rescued--Steamers arrive and leave 251

Mischief done by departure of steamers--Determine to establish the Woon at Tamu--The country quieting down--Recovery of mails--Letter from the Viceroy--Arrive at Manipur--Bad news--I return to Tamu--Night march to Pot-tha--An engagement--Wounded--Return to Manipur--Farewell--Leave for England 260

The events of 1890-1 271

These experiences were written in brief intervals of leisure, during the last few months of the author's busy life, which was brought to a sudden close before they were finally revised. Only last March when his nearest relations met at Fulford Hall to take leave of the eldest son of the house, before he sailed for India, the manuscript was still incomplete, and Sir James read some part of it aloud. His health had suffered greatly from over-fatigue in the unhealthy parts of India, in which his lot had been chiefly cast, but it was now quite restored and a prolonged period of usefulness seemed before him.