Down the Columbia — A Reader’s Guide
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Read the Text
_Through Surprise Rapids_
We pushed off from Beavermouth at three o'clock of the afternoon of September twenty-ninth. We had hoped for an early start, but the erratically running local freight, six or eight hours behind time, did not arrive with our boat until noon. The introductory shots had already been made. Made up momentarily as a gentleman--wearing an ankle length polished waterproof and a clean cap, that is,--I jumped the westbound Limited as it slowed down on entering the yard, dropping off presently at the platform with a "here-I-am" expression when Roos signalled that the focus was right. Then I shook hands with the waiting Blackmore, and together we strode to the door of the station and met the previously-rehearsed agent. (Roos had wanted me to shake hands with the agent as well as with Blackmore, but I overruled him by pointing out that I was a "gentleman-sportsman" not a "gentleman-politician," and served notice on him that pump-handling must henceforth be reduced to a minimum.) We tried to perfect the agent in a sweeping gesture that would say as plainly as words "The train with your boat is just around that next bend, sir," but somehow we couldn't prevent his trying to elevate his lowly part. His lips mumbled the words we had put on them all right, but the gesture was a grandiose thing such as a Chesterfieldian footman might have employed in announcing "My Lord, the carriage waits."
Roos, in all innocence, narrowly missed provoking a fight with a hot-tempered half-breed while he was setting up to shoot the incoming freight. He had an ingenious method of determining, without bending over his finder, just what his lens was going to "pick-up." This consisted of holding his arms at full length, with his thumbs placed tip to tip and the forefingers standing straight up. The right-angling digits then framed for his eye an approximation of his picture. To one not used to it this esoteric performance looked distinctly queer, especially if he chanced to be standing somewhere near the arch priest's line of vision. And that, as it happened, was exactly the place from which it was revealed to the choleric near-Shuswap section hand. I didn't need the breed's subsequent contrite explanation to know that, from where he had been standing, those twiddling thumbs and fingers, through the great fore-shortening of the arms, looked to be right on the end of the nose of the grimacing little man by the camera. Not even a self-respecting white man would have stood for what that twiddling connoted, let alone a man in whose veins flowed blood that must have been something like fifteen-sixteenths of the proudest of Canadian strains. Luckily, both Blackmore and his burly boatman were men of action. Even so, it was a near squeeze for both camera and cameraman. Roos emerged unscarred in anything but temperament. And, of course, as every one even on the fringes of the movies knows, the temperaments of both stars and directors are things that require frequent harrowing to keep them in good working order.
Roos' filming of the unloading of the boat was the best thing he did on the trip. Every available man in Beavermouth was requisitioned. This must have been something like twenty-five or thirty. A half dozen, with skids and rollers, could have taken the boat off without exerting themselves seriously, but could hardly have "made it snappy." And action was what the scene demanded. There was no time for a rehearsal. The agent simply told us where the car would be shunted to, Blackmore figured out the best line from there over the embankment and through the woods to the river, and Roos undertook to keep up with the procession with his camera. Blackmore was to superintend the technical operation and I was ordered to see that the men "acted natural." And thus we went to it. The big boat, which must have weighed close to half a ton, came off its flat car like a paper shallop, but the resounding thwack with which her bows hit a switch-frog awakened Blackmore's concern. "Easy! Easy! Don't bust her bottom," he began shouting; while I, on the other side, took up my refrain of "Don't look at the camera!--make it snappy." The consequence of these diametrically opposed orders was that the dozen or more men on my side did most of the work. But even so it was "snappy"--very.
The book opens not on the Columbia but on the Continental Divide, where a chance remark by a Game Patrol sergeant about dipping water for either ocean sparks Freeman's idea for a river journey. The introduction establishes a voice that is both observant and wry, as when the scout warns that the trip requires 'lots of time and no dependent family.' This framing sets up a narrative that will balance adventure with the practicalities of navigating a major river.
From Idea to Riverbank
The opening pages trace the genesis of the expedition, moving from the snowy Divide to the actual launch. Freeman's prose is precise about place: the 'powdery snow overlying the crust rustled under our ski like autumn leaves,' and distant peaks 'seemed fairly to float upon the eyeball.' The sergeant's theatrical dipping—left for the Pacific, right for the Atlantic—gives the river a continental significance before the journey begins. Yet the author undercuts any grandiosity with the scout's dry warning about 'no dependent family to think of and shake your nerve in the pinches.' This tension between the sublime and the practical will recur throughout.
Characters Along the Current
Freeman populates his narrative with vivid figures met on the river. One of the most memorable is 'Wild Bill,' an old trapper whose encounter with a bottle of rum escalates into a comic-tragic scene. The author captures Bill's precise gestures: 'snatching the bottle from me with a hand whose fingers crooked like claws,' then downing half a pint of 'liquid fire' without a blink. The aftermath—Bill chasing twin tomcats, unable to tell them apart—is rendered with deadpan restraint. Another companion, Blackmore, provides a laconic counterpoint, tossing the empty rum bottle into the river and remarking, 'The next time you ask a man to take a “swallow,” probably you’ll know enough to find out how big his “swallow” is in advance.'
Navigating the River's Grip
The physical experience of the river dominates the middle excerpts. At Revelstoke Canyon, the current 'rushes with great velocity, throwing itself in a roaring wave now against one side, now against the other.' The cliffs are 'not over a hundred feet apart,' and the depth exceeds a hundred and fifty feet. Freeman notes that while the rapids were manageable for their boat, 'the swirls would have made the run very dangerous for a skiff or canoe at any time.' The author's eye for detail extends to the weather: 'drizzling rain and lowering clouds made pictures of what is one of the very finest scenic stretches of the Big Bend quite out of the question.' This blend of practical hazard and thwarted aesthetics is characteristic.
Voice and Observation
Freeman's narrative voice is that of a seasoned traveler who records both the spectacular and the mundane. He notes the 'diamond clear' air at the Divide, the 'rustling' of snow under skis, and the precise mechanics of a boat's passage through a canyon. His humor is understated, as when he describes Wild Bill's counting of the tomcats: 'Very likely by that time there were two of him in fancy as well as in fact—possibly mauve and pink ones.' The author does not inflate the river's dangers into melodrama; instead, he lets the details—a hundred-and-fifty-foot sounding line failing to find bottom—speak for themselves. This restraint gives the narrative a documentary credibility.
The River as a Living Entity
Throughout the excerpts, the Columbia is more than a setting; it is a force with its own rhythms. Freeman describes the current 'speeding up at Rocky Point Rapids' and the river 'throwing itself' against canyon walls. The boat is subject to the river's will, and the author's language often personifies the water: it 'rushes,' 'throws,' 'roars.' Yet he also notes its beauty, as when he regrets the rain that obscures the canyon's scenery. This dual perspective—the river as both adversary and spectacle—gives the travelogue a dynamic tension. The reader is never allowed to forget that the journey is a negotiation with a powerful natural system.
Freeman's account rewards a reader attentive to the interplay between human character and natural force. The excerpts suggest a narrative that moves from the conceptual to the concrete, from the Divide to the sea, with each stretch of river bringing new encounters and challenges. The author's eye for the telling detail—a gesture, a remark, a change in current—makes the journey vivid without overstatement. Readers should expect a travelogue that is as much about the people met along the way as about the river itself.
There’s a particular stillness in Down the Columbia, the way Freeman listens to a river that carries so many voices. It reminds me of another quiet record, where distant hills hold their own stories. Both books share that patient willingness to sit with a place, to let its people and landscapes speak slowly. My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills — Reading Notes has that same unhurried heart.
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